Zen and the art of Sparkling

The endless story continues, the decorating my house. I wish I had never started, I hate it... With vengeance! It just not my thing, I am a hammer and nails man that has been forced to become some Zen like higher elevated plain thing when I try to plaster the wall. Its an art, I take my hat of to them all Sir, its that east. Who needs a beer! And when I am finished it will look crap, oh boy back to the wall, quite literally.

anyway positive thinking, no thank you...

Avalanche part 2

It would seem my last post has become even more poignant of late. Received an email from Andy one of my climbing buddies in Scotland saying his mate Will had been killed by an avalanche on Ben Nevis a few days ago.

I am fascinated by avalanches in general, although many people who get involved in them don't share my point of view. They are truely amazing things, how can something so unstable remain, sometimes hours, days weeks, just waiting for one person. Its not Russian Roulette or some chance in a million you can work it out, you just have to want to and that is the hard part because the rat inside says "yeah its all right go for it" because we suck at making decision that say, climbing back out or don't shoot the powder bowl.

After returning from Finse (minus 29.9 at one point!) it was very apparent how many people just don't think about it, and just ski. Lucky buggers! I just can't I have started on that road of avalanche inquires and so it is always there. There must have been a time when I did not think about it, but my first winter season way back in time, all that changes when a windslab avalanche came down the gully I was climbing. it missed me, not because I was good, but because I just happened to be not in its way.

The mountains are beautiful.

Jamie's dice with death...

Or slow asphyxiation... which I have always pencilled in as one of those nasty ways of of becoming dead. Anyway I was off my game a bit today, but still went skiing in Myrkdal ski area, it was busy which irritated me, so I nipped back to the car found some skins and went ski touring instead. Took the tow to the highest point and skinned up the local peak. I did noticed the scoured snow, and that it had been really cold with blue skies for days (facet crystal alarm) but just seemed to block all this out. Many people had been skiing the lower off piste slopes, even in areas I have thought are prime time avalanche trigger zones. I have been to a few and they really give me the creeps, especially as some many people take off at the tow and just slide across into them. Oblivious it may seems. Anyway I skinned up to the top, chatted with some guys who had just skied the face already and were getting ready for another shot, and then spoke to Siri on the phone. So of I went the snow was great, real powder, and deep. I was aware the slope was getting steeper so, traversed over to a new line, and suddenly found myself in unknown ground, steep. The slope to my right was a notorious avalanche spot. Normally cornice collapse of a rock face. To the left was a classic convex, concave slope on one of these steep bluffs I wished to avoid. Or straight down following some other guys tracks, which looked steep. I should have gone straight down (in hindsight this would have taken me into the run out zone), but hesitated not being on the ball, and traversed right through the key zone on the convex, concave slope, trying to get 30-40 m or so to a defined rib. This had also been skied. I crossed it, and about halfway across I saw that distinctive cracking below me, silent. Angular blocks, rotating, randomly, I checked above me, nothing was happening, and checked around me, nothing, I skied on heading for the rib and large boulder as sanctuary. Between me and the boulder was a hidden gully, not big but it was to risky to try and ski though it to the boulder, so had to go straight down. The avalanche by this time had finished in the key zone, and would not elongate to my new position. I watched it run out for 200-300m. I moved as quick as I could being careful to choose a new line, following ribs and getting ready to run and hid, but I had one thing on my mind, and that was simple get to the ranger station and tell them nobody was trapped in the debris and I was the only person involved. The snow was deep at the bottom and I could not get speed up. Slowly I go to the piste and shot down to the tow, where I found the rangers gearing up for a rescue. They seemed very understanding all considered. One of the rangers a Brit told me it was only 5 mins after the avalanche that a Lifty (tow operate) told him! And so if I had been trapped it would have been way past 20mins before they would have started a rescue. Which would have meant death for me. I never go into the hills expecting rescue, I never expect it ever, but I am sure at 4am tonight I will wake up in bed and have that dreadful thought of but and if and what's. Today I totally screwed up, but on a positive side when the slab avalanche occurred I did not panic and calmly assessed and skied out. On a negative side, today I went down a slope I new could avalanche, fully in this knowledge and skied straight into the key or trigger zone with full knowledge. And for that I am a idiot!

Vinteren kommet tilbake

Well suddenly the ski season stated with a trip to Hemsedal! Normally at this time of year you go to Hemsedal for a social and a bit of skiing on fake snow – ice thing and wonder why you bothered, but this year fresh snow had plastered the mountain. Elisabeth drove up, giving me a break as I have just driven back from the far north seeing Siri. It was good drive up and the road wasn’t to icy so I could relax in the back while our other passenger Jess from Canada periodically shut her eyes when it all got to much, which reminded me of my sisters black Labrador that is a shy and neurotic wreck and copes with everything by going to sleep. This occurred in the weirdest places like a visit to the pub. She would get nervous and just lie on the floor sleep while all danger had to skirt round her. To be a dog, may be I should learn from this, and fall asleep in scary Statoil Hydro meetings! Anyway I digress, it’s a habit don’t you know…. Hemsedal…. So off we went… and we found fantastic conditions in the forest (Jeg ha kompis i skogen!), and suddenly the mist of desire over took me, my usual diplomatic self evaporated, the impatient and impulsive person came out, dropping straggerlers and wasters at my side I charged off alone, wanting more of this powder filled forest drug. I skied harder, harder, steeper lines, only black runs and beyond to my legs burnt and the ghost within my mind where forced to the dark recesses, obscurity and beyond. But this wasn’t enough and as the road was blocked on Sunday night we stayed another night and found fresh snow, and for a few hours on Monday skiing between the trees I was invisible, and this lasted some time until my legs could take no more and I retired with grace before I broke something.


The best therapy is a steep run, with a fresh snow….

Ice has arrived…. That deep feeling of fear starts to awake, I sometimes wonder if it will ever stop knowing at my cranium, nibbling at my resolve, it would be so easy just to say no and go skiing, but I drive through the valleys the girls in the car giggles, your like a dog staring out of the window and they had never seen me so focused. Ice fall after ice fall, dominated my thoughts, I wish I had never seen them, which had slept through this journey, but I have seen them know…. I must go and see…

Cold Fingers part 3

I forgot to add!

If you like Radiohead? Yes I do! Then you might just like Radiodread! by Sugar Minott, its the reggae version of radiohead songs and is great. Just great!

Enjoy, especially Let down again!

Cold Fingers part 2

Well I just keep squeezing in those days on the rock, although increasingly short sessions as night keeps coming earlier. Its been great weather in Bergen and Keith and I have been making the most of it by taking a few illicit hours of work during the day and goig for a forced march over Floyen and some other hills. If my boss is reading this, which is highly unlikely as you never read anything I send you! I do return to work, well Keith does! I checked my time sheet the other day and to my horror I have not worked since mid September! 65% of my team was axed, and I can see the writing on the wall for me! Time to dust off the CV (Climbing!) and get in trim (climbing) and start looking around for new opportunities (Sotra, Rosandal, Jotunheim!!!), and direct my attentions in a more productive way (up hill on smallish holds, preferable with good protection).

I should work in HSE, no really I shouldn't I just can't tow the line, when it comes to paper bullshit and paper exercises to keep the client happy. I was reading on the great impartial web site called the BBC (If you don't get it yes I am being sarcastic), about some scientist being ignored by the government! Shock horror no shit! ignoring our wise impartial words, welcome to the real world. I have been ignored for years, if the powers that be, be they whoever actually came down and had a real look they would be shocked at how much the impartial voice has been ignored because some middle layer just couldn't tell bad news, or didn't think the news was in there interests so spun it a bit.

Where is that climbing guide?

Who needs a beer?

Cold fingers

Well back in Bergen for awhile, and back on the rock which seems like an age. Mainly just down at Hellenset on the slabs, but also some bouldering out on Sotra. The evenings are drawing in, and its not the cold that stops play, but the dark. On the first foray, blowing on finger tips we got some good slab routes done, with Camilla and Elisabeth doing a route under head torch. Been back with Keith, and even thought it was cold he pulled his finger out and lead two 5s in fine style. Next person up for grabs was Jessica, who has been increasingly keen to get out. What she lacks in strength is made up with superb style, for which she gets 10 out 10 every time. What is more impressive, after only say a handful of trips out she can second Norwegian 6 on slab!!!! Shocking!! go girl... Well with the cold brings crisp dry conditions and so even thought the days are short I still feel the urge to drag the trad gear back to Sotra for one more trad routes before the snow comes and if the snow comes I'll just drag it out with axes! On Sunday, ignoring the rain and wet roads we drove out to Sotra for bouldering and even rain on the way did not deter our eager soles, even if Keith was muttering doom and gloom. We found the very spot, and although a little damp we launched at the smooth rock with much gusto, which normal ended up back on the bouldering mat with a thump. But a good day spent. As it was pointed out, the hardest part of bouldering is letting go of the ground, for which I have much affection for, especially my left foot...