Trying to control the fear, or contain it is what its all about, but then Perry reminded me while on the belay ledge, that after all this was supposed to be fun! Some how I had forgotten about the fun bit! I need reminding from time to time, that yes I am here on my own free will, and yes this is fun, but that gets all cluttered up and forgotten in the single moment of that time.
We did Maos Gate at 4+ very pleasant, awkward slanty ramp thing on pitch one, and awkward throw yourself round on smears corner thingy on the second pitch, but generally okay. We then decided to have a stab at some -5 called Indianerstein. The first pitch was relatively straightforward until the great hand of Norwegian grading spanked us back into reality. A particularly cruel sequence of smeary high steps, with no hands, all conducted above gear ensued at half height. Perry thought I’d fluffed it! But the hero inside blocked out the whimpering voice of doubt. Just! Anyway Perry the languishing E4 climber set to on the second pitch and after some comments like “I am scared”, and “that was terrifying “topped out looking much relieved. By this time the sun had hidden itself behind some clouds and winter had returned. Both hand and feet were numb with cold as I had decided on a light weight summer outfit. I started up the second pitch to find a melee of desperate thin slab moves inter-dispersed by imaginary gear, followed by a bold rising foot traverse (no hands – no gear) to a grass filled corner (smears and back foot), before a rightward traverse in an exposed position (wet, cold & scary) could be followed to a smooth exit corner (Very cold, very smeary very scary). The question remains how does 5- become some sort of E1, 5a death-fest?
Anyway, the rock was dry, the climbing season has started… the rat has been fed… it wants more… kanskje.... ja...
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