Movie of the moment

A Really cool movie by Petzl who make climbing gear!


Just cool

Motorbikes and Millie

Awhile back I wrote a series of articles about my grandpa who was part of the Bergers Climbing club based in Middleborough. It was a labor of love deciphering all the scribbles, mostly semi drunken scrawl in pencil in a small note book. But it was worth it. A real insight into a quiet mans life, the old man that lived next door. I remember I found his old rope in the barn at home and possible a very strange harness and proceeded to get myself tangled upside-down in a tree. The local farmer found me, and in typical dower Cumbrian shouted at me, but I turned down the help and eventually struggles free only to try again and end up in the same mess. Millie was grandpa’s wife and she was bit radical for the 1930. She wore trousers and rode a motorcycle. For ages on the cupboard in the hall they had this battered trophy. It was just inscribed Armystead Hanson, 1928 Gjers Trial and something about Middleborough Motorbike Club (grandpa was president from 1957-59). From the outside it would seem grandpa an MC trials however it turned out he did with a side car with Millie. However Millie actually drove the bike a bit as she thought Army was going a bit slow, but near the end the swopped round as they felt it would not be accepted as a win with a women riding the bike! In the club history in 1926 they had vote to allow women to have a half vote within the club, but it was turned down. Just before I moved to Norway I sent the trophy back to Middleborough MC along with some photos of Mille riding her bike. They seemed a bit bemused I would just give it to them expecting nothing in return but the way I see it is if you give a gift with strings its really not a gift at all. They told me they would award it to the best female rider each year. I think Mille would have liked that. It must have been so hard growing up in a world dominated by men, dictating what you can or cannot do. I think Millie would have liked Norway (she visited with Army just before the Second world war I think)
It interesting looking at the club history many names crop up who were members of the Bergers climbing club. I wonder if motorcycles and climbing go together. Anyway today I remember Army and Millie, they have been pushing up the daises for a very long time now and need remembering.

The Climbers of Middlesbrough - Bergers

Awhile back I wrote a series of articles about my grandpa’s who was part of the Bergers Climbing club based in Middlesbrough. It was a labor of love working out all the scribbles

The following three posts are associated with an article that was added to a web site called UKClimber.com, and was based on the following three articles I wrote. This is the full version, which I think is better but understand why UKC altered them to form a more Internet friendly version.

Part 1 of 3 - The First Belay
Part 2 0f 3 – The second Belay
Part 3 of 3 – The Third Belay

Feel free to comment.

The Third Belay

The following three posts are associated with an article that was added to a web site called UKClimber.com, and was based on the following three articles I wrote. This is the full version, which I think is better but understand why UKC altered them to form a more internet friendly version.

Part 3 out of 3

Oops! there is something a little wrong with the HTML code for this I'll sort it out latter!

The Third Belay

The Third Belay of the
excellent and original Bergernsteiners was held on Jan 12^th 1941 Jet
Miners, Broughton.

Present :

Otto Von Hanson, The MacDon, Chas B
(RAF), Bros (H.Pybus), Hon Musician (G.Hall), Chief Guide (A.Barker), Skim
Barker (?),Jack Gash, The MacTav (Stainthorpe), Archy Buckley, Chas Saunders

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=112681Through
the eye of the compass. Time stands still

A damp dismal morning saw 5 of
the more active Bergers assemble at the appointed spot and off they went to Clay Bank where they found at the top mist and snow. This did not dampen the spirit and the chief guide
dispatched himself on the detached pinnacle however his marvelous powers seemed on the wane and success was not achieved. They all hoped
this was a temporary phase. After this
brief try on the rock, surrounded in mist and snow, they had an
illustration of how easy it was to lose oneself in mist. One of the clan Berger persuaded the others to go
south and then ended up going north east. The navigation was heightened by the
proposal of a wager on his direction being still south. This cost the member two packets of fags and his honor! For the first time since 1939 we
hear about [the] Pillar Fiasco, & we all got very wet in reference to the weather being very similar on
this day. One member had
brought along spare socks, trousers and slippers, however the minute takers
says modesty forbids me to mention his name. It would appear that he intended getting
so wet inside that what happened outside was a matter of no importance. They moved back to the Jet Miners for 2pm, and soon
the wetness and cold outside was forgotten as they found a huge fire
and empty bar. By about 3:30 dinner had
been eaten and washed down with beer. The usual toasts were made to The
King and absent friends. One Berger
recited a poem in Yorkshire dialect, which focused on the genius of
each of the Bergers. Otto Von (Army
Hanson) told the members he had been invited by Bob Holmes chief of
the Lakeland Club, to their annual Hon Pro Supper. He had also been invited to do an impossible new pitch on
Gimmer. It would seem he wriggled
out of this one! Although it was felt the
fame and honor of the Clan Bergers was in tacked, and clearly growing.

Then suddenly the mood changes and
the question of the club name, Bergensteigern is raised and the association with the country they were at war with.
Frank B hands over a letter from a Patriarch, which contained a 10
shillings note towards funds. The letter outlines reason why the club should
change its name. As the note contained money, however, it was seen as a bribe
and deemed unfortunate. But clearly with war at their door step, any association with Germanic
words was distasteful and so the club voted to change the name Der
Bergensteigern to another. Much
lamenting went on about the good old days and what the club would
be called and why should the name change! The diary records; the Germans
had waged this war, the bombing of accredited neutrals and rather hideous
association of any German hand above our association must be removed. Then
suddenly G.Hall (hon Musician and seconded by Hon Sec) hailed we be
known in future as The BERGERS, as this
word was considered Nordic in
origin. This is rather fanciful
and the word Bergers is not Nordic, however this did not matter to the new clan
and with unanimous support and call from member; Den Bergensteigern is dead, Long live the Bergers! Otto von gave a speech, which the
minute taker admits the main gist
escape[s] him but followed
the rough lines of praising the late chief, and hoping the ongoing clan feud
between rival members (McDon and McTav) would now be over. This feud was
clearly healing as the McDon graciously praised the work of the McTav
air raid shelter duties. Following this
the McDon asked in future could Otto Von (Army Hanson) the newly appointed
Chieftain to provide words placed in their proper order when giving speeches. (Inset in Diary – “Otto
Von” this name has a horrible German flavor, this must be attended
to). The meeting finished at 8.30. It is
noted Stan Pearson could not attended as he could not get leave from the RAF.
His son Herbert also did not attend. The diary is signed The
MacNab.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=79272MacTavish
(F.C. Stainthorpe) and James Hanson (Army’s brother) on Blavan

There are no more minutes in the diary
until a Tuesday in May. It was too wet,
and so a short walk was taken with minutes recording; seemingly these
short walks are becoming a feature of the Bergers nights. The minute taker tactfully forgot most of the
evening’s event but one. The changing of Otto Vons name as it
had a Germanic sound. They discussed a new name, and contemplated telling
Somerset House and the local newspapers – You know how it goes. A letter was received supporting the name change,
but this was imaginary along with a thousand others and postcards from all over the world some with lengthy epistles and other shorter with “my God why”. Only
one person wrote to challenge the
name change and that was Hitler.
It was decided Otto von would be called McNab, although he had been calling
himself this for some time. The minute taker writes; The McNab sits
in His chieftain’s chair slightly
corpulent me thinks, but nevertheless releasing in the arms of his ancestors,
Gentlemen, Long live the McNab. After this
McNab gave a new badge to the club and they fell into rebellious
talk, debauchery, claymores and so forth.

The following Sunday after the
Tuesday meet a run to the Wain Stones took place. Prompt start, was made, the usual men were in bed at the
usual time, the usual man being ready at the usual time, the chief guide
attempted, I say attempted, to belie his past errors on the Rocks by donning
rubbers, what in itself alone was an act of discretion to those rocks at least
in the eyes of his fellow Bergers.
Following the climbs; Purists in the gentle are of rock climbing
called at the Jet Miners and had beers and made a mess of the one o’clock news.

Meeting held at the Jet Miners
June 2^nd 1941. No activities this “do” was in honor of the visit of
our ambassador of Scotland, Doc Brown, looking as well as ever, with him a
gentlemen by the name Harry Farrow, now in the RAF, who according to the afore [Doc Brown] has worn boots on Squr n’an Gilean to
become an honored Berger. A story is noted
of a trip to the Lakes. The car broke down on the way, which resulted in
reaching Keswick at lunch, were they went looking for Mcnab who had been
holidaying in the Lakes. They went looking in Langstrath, but no McNab. The chief guide here attempted to condone his past
failures by a tricky ascent & descent of a protuberance in the valley. The minutes don’t record if he was success but
state; whether perhaps I am making too much of this effort remains
for the future to decide as his brother Chas elected to go to sleep, whether
through boredom or confidence I do not know as I forgot to ask Chas. This section of the minutes finishes with them flogged
the old iron (car) all the way
home; made it to Darlington by 8:55 and blow up again! This time the chief
guide showed interest holding the torch, or rather spent his time shaking it
about to get it to work. The minutes have been signed by The MacNab.

Meeting held June 28^th, previous
to the meal had the usual walk, which as now degenerated into a wild scramble
from the cars into the bar. The meeting
ensued, with interest but nothing written in the minutes.

The last meeting of 1941 was held
in jet Miners December 12^TH This was the reconnoitering party on
reconnaissance, who did their job with the usual Bergers dash into the bar. There is little of note, apart from the McNab (Army
Hanson) intends getting in touch with the Abraham of Keswick for a
picture for the menu card, his film and a quiz on the Lakes and other
mountains. My mother told me that Army had
once taken some pictures he took to the Abraham of Keswick for some advice and
came back right chuffed saying they had bought the rights for a few off him.

Fourth belay
was held Jan 11^th 1942 at the Jet Miners; the writing is difficult to follow. A preferred start at
10am saw us off punctually at 11pm. The
delights of the Jet Miners almost thwarted them, as the fire was lit and it was
cold outside; we sallied forth out into the unknown fastnesses of
Cleveland. The venture took them to the
Wain stones, where we spent an enjoyable hour scrambling among the
icy rocks. The Hon Sec found a rock on a craggy
perch and after climbing on to the ledge sent
the thing hurtling to its doom thousands of feet below. They returned to the warmth
of the Jet Miners at 4:30pm to eat. They toasted Mrs Bainbridge for her
fantastic food, even thought the meat was rabbit now. A letter was read
out by McNab from the Bob Holmes of Keswick, the leader of the Lakeland
mountain club, who was in the forces now and stationed in the south. Bob
Holmes letter was read out; though tampered with a very justifiable
grouse, to wit, lamentable occupation – tent – refraining… Well the Clan Bergers are displeased to see their
friend posted south, and think Whitehall have made a mistake of their Commando!
The minutes go on, it’s chaotic at best,
and they raise toasts to absent friends and the King and pay
great homage to Scotland with gusto. Games broke out, with two teams battling it out, songs were sung like “The
road to the Isle”. The minutes finish
with; thus, one of the happiest gatherings in the annuals of the
Clan. Signed The MacNab (Army Hanson).

And that was it;
there is a few more post, but just names, who attended meetings, nothing more.
Near the beginning of the diary in black elegant handwriting: Members Year ending Dec 31^st 1942, as page 1 and Stan Pearson, Archie
MacGregor, MacKay, Harry Farrow.

It is evident
the club existed, maybe more informally as early
as Feb 1936, when the clan was photographed on the ice of Stickle tarn in
Langdale, but after December 31^st 1942 there are no more entries.
War continued on, and I recall that my mother telling me that Doc Brown fell
ill in Glasgow, and needed penicillin, but all the stocks were needed for the
front line and so he died. She even told me that at one time the very stocks
of medicine he needed were stacked outside his hospital room.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=78991Men
on ice Feb 1936 – Stickle Tarn

So what
happened to Pillar Rock! And was the
honor of the Bergers upheld after so many
Pillar Fiascos? There is no
mention in the minutes of success, however there is one un-dated letter written
by Army Hanson (The McNab), some twelve pages long, called “The
challenge of Pillar Rock”.

Its starts: For
some time now it has been apparent among the more self-respecting section of
the Bergers Clan, that the gauntlet will have to be thrown down with regard to
this business of the ascent of “Pillar Rock” in Ennerdale . Members had tried! But had been thwarted on the Old
West Route due to not being able to find
the start of the route due to few coils of mountain mist! Granted the mist was of a particularly vicious
variety worming its way into every crack – chimney – crevice
– and turned what were once good strong hand & footholds into
veritable slippery death traps! It
would seem the Clan Berger had on several occasions been forced to retreat off
the Pillar due to gusty weather
for which Army writes, By this I do not mean an ordinary steady wind, but
one that playfully pulls you off your footholds – gives you cowardly push
from the side, a suddenly blow the rope round you neck so you appear to be
strangled. The letter continues but it is clear only retreat and
not success bound their adventures. Army finishes by lamenting of what
could have been; and when at last & with infinite joy the “Burgers”
heave the final brink & behold with proud & haughty stance – the
prospect undoubtingly form “Pillars” lofty summit – they can
say – We the Bergers who have had the tenacity to essay this mighty Rock
of Pillar – have this day reinstated the flagging footmen of our great
tradition.

It is signed - Long
live the Bergers

 

The Second Belay

The following three posts are associated with an article that was added to a web site called UKClimber.com, and was based on the following three articles I wrote. This is the full version, which I think is better but understand why UKC altered them to form a more internet friendly version.

Part 2 out of 3

The Second Belay

The Second Belay of the worthy and Honorable (Née Honorary) order of BERGENSTEIGERN Jan 14^th 1940. Held under the benign eye of Mrs. Bainbridge to say nothing of the Blue Pencil …… of her granddaughter (we think) the following Bergers were present:

Clan Bergers with Gimmer Crag in the back ground possible 1939. Army is on the centre of the picture with the spotted jumper, next his Brother Jim in the white shirt and dark jacket.

The Macdon, Chief Guide – A.C.Barker, Map Reader – C.Barker, Skiff – F.Barker, Bros - H.I.Pybus, Otto von – T.A.Hanson, Arch.Buckley, Chas Saunders, Halibut – S.Pearson, C.H.Allen – Grapefruit & Squiff – Hon Pooh bear. And the Chieftain in his rightful place….. The rear!

Club Anecdote: “We will just take a few sandwiches in case”

These old men would turn up at Army’s house from time to time, mother would get terrible excited and if Army hadn’t noticed, or was playing it cool, my mother would rush over and call him Daddy, and explain there was a guest. “Oh Hello” he would say and “who’s this then…” And Millie would quickly make tea, often in the garden. Army would always seem, to be playing it casual, but you could tell be the eyes, there was no secrets he was made up to see this person. My mother would walk back to our house, head down, slightly shy, and quickly explain, someone from the club is here, a friend of grandpa’s and I was left none the wiser!

Some minutes takers have greater flair for recording than others. During this, the second belay, and the several pitches that make it up, MacTav (F.C Stainthorpe) kept a neat and detailed recording of daily events, often with hard and direct humor, which verges at several times as downright rude or Yorkshire!

The Weather changes

A glorious morning saw a gathering of the Clan at the end of Fell Dowre at the disgustingly early hour of 10:30. Chas Barker drove Otto, Bros, The MacTav and the MacDon.

Stan Pearson drove Squiff, arch, Buck, Hon Fuas, Hon Secty, Hon Fin Secty and Hon auditor.

A full load this!

Arriving at Jet Miners, the Chief Guide had left word that he had already set off with Chas Saunders, the younger Allan, and Sunday length of age.

The extraordinary phenomenon of this early using of the part of the Chief Guide had to be seen to be believed. However leaving cars of the bottom of the fell, the Bergers found the Chief Guides limousine covered with HOAR! Frost. It was decided he had spent the night at Jet Miners,

Chas B had brought along a sledge but the sloped were free of snow, so sledging was out of the question.

The assemble moved off to the tops in single file the chieftain in his rightful position.

Lunch was taken at the top and the MacDon was delighted to find how unselfish and comradely the feeling was. Chas Saunders passed the flask containing washed dish water round. SKIM BARKER shared his soup, Chas B shared his tea, and sandwiches and cakes were offered by all to all. (N.B. The MacDon noticed that although the MacTavish partook literally of all the good things offered refrained from handing any of his own stuff around.)

Photographs and film was taken, and whist the Hon Scavenger the MacTav burnt the paper and in the only place from which the wind would blow the flames over our resting place, silly blighter, the others smoked cigarettes and pipes until this food had digested. It was remarked that the Chieftain took all the cigarettes which were offered. It is thought he is saving up to buy a new suit!

Club Anecdote: “Am I cheating? Pardon fellers”

Suddenly an about was heard and behold that Berger Pearson was seen clinging half way up a rock face. If the Prospectus of Halibut Gil could have seen the performance of stow this day, the new was he negotiated, balanced and generally overcame all difficulties, in ordinary shoes and AUSTIN REED NATTY SUITINGS, they would preserve him for life as their finest achievement . Sunday climbs were made of the very interesting thing. Chas B did a neat solo on the needle. The Hon Treasure and other members of the party! Scrambled all over the place, always working together in unison. He was in good flow. Even the MacTav excelled himself been dragged up one steep pitch of about 12 feet. And Buckley a Charitable soul swore the MacTav did touch one of the holds, - but it was with his backside. Otto generally comforted himself with the usual cheerful through slightly overwhelming style. Old Otto does love the mountains, he embraces them lovingly, enveloping them in his eager arms; he is the stuff which makes heroes.

All the Bergers. Present, with glorious sun shining, appeared to be trying to work up as big an appetite as possible. The MacDon was impressed with the unselfish way in which the Chief Guide set himself out to help all the other Bergers. When he could have been ‘Showing off’ and ‘doing his stuff’ he was belaying, hoisting and advising the less capable Bergers. Knowing his prowess as a rock-gymnast - I wish to place on record his unselfish and kindly actions of this perfect day.

Half way through the afternoon the rocks sang with welcome to the oldest Berger A.C.A who was seen climbing the fell accompanied by his do. At this point last year’s skipper disappeared. It was thought that his exactions on the rock had given his bile bogus the necessary sludge. Skim showed himself a useful climber, but not as confident in his ability as he should. If only had had the concert of the MacDon he would be good. At this point our oldest member put his younger completely in the shade. With very slight, if any assistance from the rope he overcame a rather stiff and exposed pitch of about 40ft! His arrival at the summit was greeted with cheers from his adoring fellow Bergers. A Hawked bomber flying in the vicinity, hearing the acclamation, turned tail and fled.

After a short stroll over the fells the Bergers returned to their cars, the only fly in the ointment being the loss of C.Barker’s axe some damned Sassenach had wolfed it.

The only incident of note on the return journey was the indiscretion of that Berger of Barker, who was determined to gladder the heart! Of a female member of a cycling club. The women of uneasy virtue loitered around parking ground casting feverish eyes on the massive limbs of the former Skipper. It was noticed that he lingered unduly over his disrobing. Happily the old blast (N.E. wind) was sufficient to discourage the naughty passions engendered by the loitering female.

On returning to the Jet Miners for supper, beer and presentation by members, the diary records in great details discussions and anecdotes, and as the beer flowed, it becomes increasingly difficult to tell fact from fiction.

It was during this evening’s entertainment, that Bros (H.Pybus) presented a story, which the MacNav recorded: "Bros told us of the 'supposed' overcoming of the N.face of the Eiger by a party of Germans. This party used special pitons -"



Over the page it continues...



"The local guide who did not agree the climbers had reached top called the climbers - 'Plumbers not Mountaineers' after hearing Bros eye witness accounts of the climb, and his assurances that on his own ascent of this face, by the same route the following morning - before breakfast, NO MARKS of any kind showed on the last 1000 ft, the Bergers agreed to support the local guides" But they would, wouldn’t they, after all the first ascent was German and Clan Bergers were at war with very same people.

Meeting held at Hutton Gate March 28^th at 8:30 am. “After a short delay owing to an aberration by the Chief Guide (he was always late!) the party made for Hutton Gate” They walked over the moor to Lunedale where an old feud became temporarily silent: “MacTav and MacDon, Claymore, buried, disported themselves with toy boats in the ‘Silent Pool’. Amazingly neither fell into the water”

Roping for a climb on Great Gable.

After this meet, the entries into the diary are often short, to the point, and mention no climbing. The most significant entry comes from the minutes of the Clan Bergers April 16^th, at the Jet Miners: “The scenery observed from the moor top was peaceful and exquisite. The clouds taking on the contour and configuration of part of the Norwegian coast known to several “Bergers”. It was resolved that the strongest support that we could offer should be given to Norway as Norway was a mountainous country and Hitler was now trespassing on our preserved, a hate of affair which could not be right tolerated. The outride world has read in the press of the fact that Frank Smythe our spiritual leader was the right hand man of the Ministry of Supplies when equipping troops for Norway “. Again we see the tremendous value of the Bergers to our war effort”. The meeting is finished with the chief Guide offering to bring a report on his recent trip to the Lake District and Otto Von shall bring his book “Norwegian” holiday.

The year draws on, but war is ever present in the minutes of the Clan Bergers. May 7^th at the Jet Miners “Discussed the Dutch Bulge situation and came to the conclusion that the ‘direct finish’ should always be in the forefront of our minds”. Another annual general meeting took place in June with no date given, only names are recorded with no minutes taken, and then another meeting August 25^th, with Chas Barker turning up “resplendent in Air Force Blues” and “It should be notes here that the previous evening had been spent in the shelters, consequently we were a trifle late in starting” One member turned up, but left shortly as he needed to “comfort the maid” a reference to having to comfort his wife after the air raids. Two members of the Clan Bergers, Chas Barker and Stan Pearson, were leaving to join the RAF: “here recorded in the minutes our good wishes and fond hopes for a speedy and safe return”

9 Army Hanson in Kern Knott’s Chimney

There are no more entries into the diary for 1940, just a open letter, possibly a presented speech, written by the Hon Sec MacTav, called “Digression, The” it’s sad, almost apologetic in part, fanciful as a young man chaotically tries to make sense of a world that is rapidly changing. “Tears now blot the ink as we write, the hands trembles, the hearts falter, can this great body of manhood vanish. How well we remember the old days when we went to the Lakes”. He continues with fanciful recollection of the Clan Bergers walking over the Lakeland Mountains with locals locking up wives and daughters from the eyes of the passing Clan Bergers. This rambling letter makes several references to the climbing indiscretion of club members “Doc Brown even then slightly corpulent fastened in the Needles Crack dangling in his opinion thousands of feet above terra firma” and “[the] Chief Guides awkward moment on the slab above Kern Knotts Crack when collective climbing was adopted at the expense of safety” followed by Chas Barkers whose moment between life and death on High cliff “was made much happier by the advice of all and sundry twenty feet of rock with handholds, none existent”. The letter is, often chaotic, what started with a sorrowful embrace of what they were losing now turns to a history of certain Clan members indiscretion on the rock. MacTav turns his attention to: “Otto’s most embarrassing moments occurred in Kern Knott’s chimney, for months old Otto had prepared for this ‘do’, boots nailed, each with nine pronged tricunies come Everest special clinkers” , he then goes on to describe in great detail, how Otto had prepared provisions not only for himself but for his trusted Sherpa: “6 lbs of Kendal Mint cake” when the day comes for “his attack from the south west” Otto and his faithful Sherpa (Artey Barker), find themselves at the bottom of the chimney: “Otto’s eagle eyes surveyed that way worked out so assiduously, when behold arrived two damsels and one man who entered and skipped up the chimney with a nonchalance since adopted by the Bergers“. This was too much for Otto, and he turned his back on the chimney and said to his faithful Sherpa: “Passang you go tell them the monsoon has broken”. This entry is just signed: “The future of the Bergensteigerns is in your hands. Gentlemen I thank you”. This letter that starts so sad becomes witty and sharp and makes one wonder if with each passing phase he becomes whipped up into frenzy of memories that have been clouded of lately and with every brush of the written stroke, those distant memories come flooding back with rejoice. There is no signature on the letter, but we can assume it is the MacTav. This was MacTav’s last chair and by the Third Belay it would seem Otto von is there new leader.

Throughout the whole minutes of the meeting in 1940, the humor remains, but it is drier, less jovial, and more serious than before. The trips and meets are more often local, less frequent, nobody wants to be far from home, and due to rationing they have neither food nor fuel.

There are very few entries for the rest of the year, and by the time the third belay comes in January of 1941, many things will change.

The following three posts are associated with an article that was added to a web site called UKClimber.com, and was based on the following three articles I wrote. This is the full version, which I think is better but understand why UKC altered them to form a more internet friendly version.

Part 1 out of 3

The First Belay

Bergers of Middleborough Outflow of Stickle Tarn 1930’s

As a child my mother showed me this old suitcase, inside it contained faded black and white photographs, a book with the words BERGENSTEIGERN (German for Mountaineers) written on the cover and some card menus with words like, One for all, and all for one, second man on the rope, and fanciful names for food, Collin Cocktails, Sandwiches au salmon de loch Stafin and Scottish Mountaineering eggs!. It all seemed very strange, these pictures of men in trilby hats with ropes around their waists, and so it remained as a suitcase mystery some twenty years more, well after my mother had died until I moving to Norway and rediscovered it.

The club diary and some climbing appurtenances of Army’s

The Characters of the Bergensteigerns 1938:

F.C.Barker (Skim) Skipper (underneath written President)
J.Gash (Squiff) Hon treas & Hon Sec
T.A.Hanson (Otto Von, later to become MacDuff - Camera, Underneath is written Hon President
A.Barker
H.Pybus (Bros)
J.Brown (Doc) (Hon Doctor)
A.C.Allen (ACA)
H.Allem (Grapefruit)
Wal.Harper
F.C.Stainthorpe (Mactav) Hon Scav

Associates: C.W.Saunders, C.Barker, G.Hall (Hon Muscish / Bandmaster), A.Buckley

My grandpa, Armstead Hanson, known as Army or Otto Von to the friends and club members, was just this old man, quiet, that lived with his wife Mille in the house called Kern Knott’s next to ours above Lake Ullswater. Then he was gone.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=79271

Armstead Hanson (Nick name: Otto von and then during the 2nd WW he became Mac Duff)

Membership Conditions of:

1) Each member must by his own effort have climbed, crawled up or arrived at by any other means the top of one of the heights of the Cullins.

2) Each member must be a decent guy, bloke, feller, chap and companion (Gentlemen admitted in certain cases)

3) No member must on any day of the club (or that ruddy matter on any other day either) leave, deposit, drop or scatter orange peel, broken bottles, loose limbs or other litter amongst nature.

4) No new member may be admitted without unanimous approval of the other members.

The First Belay of the Rock and Fell - May 3rd 1938

Minutes of the rock and Fell meetings, held 3rd of May 1938 in the Ayton Fish shop, a short traverse from the Filesheds Inn, present A.T. Hanson. F.C.Barker, A.Barker, Jack Brown, Henry Pybus, Fred Stainthorpe, H.b.Allen and Jack Gash. Long letters of apology were read from A.C.A.W Tattersal and Stan Pearson, after a short sojourn in the canyons and a much longer one in the pub the meeting commenced its first pitch.

The first belay held the usual stance. They were inebriated, in part or fully, and as they went through the usual committee routines things got worse or better depending on how you saw it. First the election of a new skipper, F.C. (Skim) Barker, proposed by Doc and Ottovon. This was toasted with beer and followed by Stainthorpe toasting absent friends nine times, before Doc Brown was proposed as Doctor for another year. Doc Brown quickly raised the question of his little black bag cost and so forth and this was referred to the finance committee, as the meeting continued, the question of the Hon Sec arose, and Jack (Squiff) Gash was appointed as he was considered the only gentlemen in the room, for which is quickly responded We have no money, and his keen observations were rewarded by offering him the position of Honoree finance and again he replied That it looked like a job for life and so the belay commenced pitch after pitch of discussions and toasts, some longer than others, and according to the diary The next trip to the Lakes was fixed July 24th to do Pillar, Bros (H.Pybus) expressed his sorrow at not been able go that day owing to him being in Switzerland knocking them off and another meeting set May 31st in the Jet Miners Broughton, Ice axes to be worn was fixed. Finally the diary tells, The question of the Hon Sec. Honorarium arose, the meeting decided to let this lay on the table, as by now most of the members were under it.

There was nothing unusual about this Belay, the name they gave to meetings, after all they were young men in the 1930’s who liked to climb, drink beer and have fun. Through the whole of the diary there is this sense of comradeship between the fellers, nick names and jokes, and the style of writing is playful, frivolous and almost naïve. They played out the committee meetings as if present at a boardroom, but with the joviality of comrades in arms. You need to read between the lines to see the full story, but isn’t that what all climber’s stories are like? To tell a story about climbing without some over subscription or slight exaggeration would render most climbing stories a bit dull. Stretching of the truth ( if only just slightly) makes the tale of the simplest of route become in that very moment more adventure than possible: a balance between life and death, with the crux of such stories not measured in success, but in the ability to hold the audience in a trance-like state of adventure wonderment. But only for a moment as you did, after all, survive to tell the tale.

Club Anecdote: He must have fallen off the end of the rope

The diary of the Bergensteigern climbing club of Middleborough is no exception to this rule. We hear very little about climbing directly but what we do see are faded photographs of young men and a club diary with the minutes of meetings written in pencil by many different hands. This Yorkshire humor is rare and hard, and the casual observer could find this harsh, with no slack given to anybody.

The meeting that was arranged at Ayton Fish Shop commenced as planned on May 31st, and again an almost prudish set standards ensue, with the minutes being approved, and confirmed before apologies given, this time by the Skipper Who was believed to be again maudlin with the Mayoress. It was also noticed that the Chief Guide had not attended and this was attributed to being caused thro him being second man in our opinion on a rather ordinary pitch. The meetings always started with a brisk walk before the pub and on this day walk, to Wain Stones via the old road from Clay bank followed by a good supper at Jet Miners. Beer did flow and as Otto von who had recently been scrounging in Skye was appointed to get some quotations for a club tie. The club name changed to Bergensteigern via election, and was toasted with much gusto. The diary was signed by Otto von, and written underneath his signature by an unknown person is the following: Otto signed the minutes with tomato sauce, what a state they must have been in.>/p>

Climbing at the Wain Stones, Otto von (Army) belays.

In the minutes held June 21st 1938, Otto von Hanson presents a report on Skye and a date is set for an attempt on Pillar Rock: Further it was agreed that July 24th should be spent on the Pillar leaving the rugby field at 5.am, breakfast, route via Aarons Slack and the High level to Pillar.

The expeditions of conquering of Pillar rock played a pivotal part in the club diary and it would seem a challenge that had thwarted them several times. This time was no different, as recorded in the minutes of the meeting held in the Jet Miners July 19th just before closing time. The meeting to Pillar was postponed to September as people were on holiday, however they did get out climbing prior to the committee formalities: Small but strong party with ropes spent greater part of the evening on some of the more advanced pitches on The Wain Stones, the Two heavy parties proving valuable for performing of belay.

Throughout the rest of 1938, the Bergernsteiners continued on trips, local and to the Lakes, with little detail until a discussion occurs in the Jet Miners whether or not the club should join the hostel movement dated Sept 16th After much discussion this was turned down as we thought it rather infra dig to associate ourselves with a movement for furthering the growth of these brothels and sinks of integrity. This was not the first time the Bergers felt they were better or different to other outdoors people, but there was always a sense of joviality with the comments which is seen in the next diary entry Meeting held Oct 3rd in the Low haunt of women of easy virtue, rogues, thieves and vagabonds, the Scottish Tea Rooms and then a recollection of the evening, Early part of the evening was spent at the Seala viewing a picture called "The Challenge" while enjoying the scenery and the acting the actual climbing left much to be desired especially to men of our intellect and prowess. Do all mountaineers consider themselves to hold the high ground? It’s arrogant to think so, but even modern mountaineers who often like to consider themselves to be part of a classless activity, have a complex in-depth hierarchy. Many traditional climbers would not consider their activities the same as Sport climbing but to the casual observer it’s all lunacy the same. It’s snobbery , we are all ‘punters’ in someone eyes, and forbid the thought that even the boldest climber would be considered a tourist, even if on rainy days they are seen buying tea in The Scottish tea rooms before the long drive home. It is true, many consider themselves different, and the Bergers felt the same and recorded it with a sarcastic wit. The year drew to a close, occasional meetings recorded, with the usual walk to the Wain Stones, but there is something else: a mist of political uncertainty crossing Europe.

First meeting January 3rd 1939 at the Jet Miners, where Doc Brown (The Doctor had been ill for several months) was present and they went sledging and ate a stupendous meal. A few days later on Jan 5th they had By common consent of the Bergensteigern this evening appears in the minutes, the Annual Ladies Night. Mr & Mrs Chas Barker invited the Bergensteigerns and its wives round to their home for an evening of enjoyment. And so after all these years I see recorded in the diary the names of those fanciful food I had seen as a child, Collin cocktails, Sandwiches au salmon de loch Stafin, Scottish Mountaineering club eggs and more Pastries au Pilatus, Grindelwald girdles and Tricuni Trifles!

The next meet was held sometime in February; Doc Brown had been posted to Glasgow and was elected by the club to the prestigious position of Ambassador of Scotland. The year drifted on with minutes of meeting recorded on Bowfell, Langdale March 26th: Getting away early about 6am in the cars of Skim Barker and Otto von. Fine morning, uneventful run to Dungeon Ghyll Hotel for Breakfast , where they found: Bowfell via Hell Ghyll, snow and biting wind on the high parts.

The mist of political uncertainty drifting across Europe now builds to darkening clouds as recorded in the following minutes of the meeting April 11th; Starting by the usual walk to Wain Stones, when our near relationship with Hitler were discussed, that was, in the event of war should we disclose our identity to him or adopt isolation, after much discussion it was decided to let the world adopt its own course and we would generally abide by it. Hindsight is a wonderful thing, but they really didn’t know what was about to happen. They could guess and postulate, but that was it. The rest of the evening continued as usual in the Jet Miners with a date set for annual general meeting: Next it was agreed we hold the annual general meeting in the Lakes on May 14th Saturday night to be spent in Keswick. Sunday on Napes Ridge when the various appointments will be made. Clearly the fret of war did not dampen their desire for adventure. The diary also records a special meeting: Special meeting April 18th in honor of a visit of Doc Brown, the Skipper of the Bergers could not attended, which resulted in the following diary entry. Owing to his usual ‘affaire le amour’ with the Mayoress - his explanation was not accepted. Due to this, and their great friend Doc Brown being present, a new Chieftain was elected, this being MacTavish. By this time the Bergers were increasingly calling themselves by Scottish names, and referring to the Bergers, not as a club but as a Clan, only Army retain his original nickname (that of Otto von) even thought any associating with Germany now was getting dangerous. During the same meeting a discussion about conscription and car tax took place but always in reference to the Clan Bergers: and agreed it was a fine thing as we are all too old to go, also things were said about the tax on cars and it was agreed that Chamberlain could under no circumstances become an Honorable Bergensteigern but could associate himself with the spawn who inhabit the brothels of the hikers following. Clearly once again the Bergers wanted no association with the hostel or hiking movement. Finally the meeting drew to a close with the following statement. At ten thirty the party was still sober. This was a very rare thing!

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On Great Gable near Kern Knott’s Chimney 1930’s. Army is on top of the boulder.

Club anecdotes: In his rightful position at the rear

As planned, the annual general meeting was held near the foot of Napes Needles May 14th, Present the MacNav in the chair, Skim Barker, Chas Barker, Art Barker, Otto von Hanson, Stan Pearson, Chas Saunders, Arch Buckly, C.H.Allan and Gash. It was wet and so there was much wandering about, until: A letter was read out from the McDonald causing much mirth at the expense of our worthy Chieftain who threatened a climb of Napes Needle with his left foot in his right pocket! Needless to say he just resumed his rightful place in the rear. The content of the letter was not disclosed and this was not the first time their claymores had crossed, over some undisclosed letter MacDon who has a blood feud with the MacTav dating from the time when boulders were only mole hills. The style and tone of the writing indicates this was an imaginary feud and not real. It would seem most mountaineering clubs enjoy banter, politics, and ‘the dreaded clique’ be it real or be it imaginary, with some individuals having an axe to grind for years. The weather must have improved as it is recorded: After this we spent an enjoyable afternoon on Ravens Crag with Grapefruit bringing Otto Von Hanson up on a belay known as the ‘Myth’. It is also recorded Ten men had a bath at Seathwaite in the same water, the last man bathing in six inches of silt and a few inches of water.

Great Cable 1930’s Army (Otto von)sits in the middle with his Brother James (MacDon) sitting just behind him. The two other men are unknown.

The next entry in the diary is about climbing in Cleveland on crags above Kildale July 18th: Scrambled about on these rocks all evening the bowline knot being tied in at least forty different methods. The Saunders special safety knot was in evidence, as very good knot to use, as you always get your rope back. It was also noted that Army was preparing to visit Skye again, and On the same day, a member of the club was insulted by a women, who seemed to take offence at his car parking skills. The next meet was held on the Aug 14th, The Clan Bergers headed out climbing before the pub: The early part of the evening was spent on the Wain Stones with a rope, the party being in absolutely rotten fettle on the rock, but still nothing attempted nothing gained, this somewhat helped as it were to ‘guild the lily’. A trip was planned to conquer Pillar Rock in the Lakes Aug 20th. This weighed heavily on the very honor of the Clan Berger: Honorable Bergensteigern must this year make the assault and conquer Pillar this year owing to our defeat last year. Army must have visited and returned from Skye, as the minute’s record Army brought greetings from Doc Brown at the Northern Belay
.

There is no record if they were successful in conquering Pillar Rock and by Sept 3rd 1939 Britain declared war on Hitler. Those dark clouds that had been drifting over Europe had arrived with thunder.

Ice climbing extravaganza

After what seems like an eon of trying to find someone to climb with, being in the wrong place at the wrong time and therefore missing climbing buddies, or being in the right place at the right time, but no climbing buddies I finally got all the ducks lined up and found last weekend gave two days of fantastic ice climbing. This last weekends saw new friend Dave and I out in force on some local Hordaland ice climbs . Armed with fresh of the phone information from John we headed to Tvindefossen, a picture waterfall by the road between Voss and Myrkdalen ski areas (Same road that takes you to Lærdal and beyond). This wonderful waterfall, easily seen from the road, is your typical tourist honey trap - stereotype waterfall for tourist, lovely casting water off huge steps. We climbed most of the route in 3 pitches, but the final steepness was melting fast and I was no longer able to ignore this. We rapped off. The next day we headed back to Bulken, which is located between Bergen and Voss. Bulken has a few frozen falls overlooking the end of the lake. I have often looked at them and wondered what they would be like, most times when driving pass I crane my neck at eye them up, trying to work out walk in and would they be worth the effort etc. Normally this involves nearly crashing the car. John called up and said he had climbed it and Sandy another climb had done it a week before. They both reported a good climb, better than it looked and being very long at 5-6 rope lengths. Dave and eyed it up, but I was running low of steam after the previous days climb. This was l due to the fact i was doing all the leading. In fact i was in guide mode. After a faff and this and that I pulled my finger out and post holed across the farmers field to find Johns tracks. We played Russian step roulette with the old foot holes and in a somewhat sweaty mass found ourselves at the base of the route. The trees in the area had hidden the first pitch. It looked steep and quite long, but also exciting! In a slippery soft of way! The ice looked really sun bleached and I was concerned about the quality. I started up the first pitch and at about half hight cut the rotten ice away and placed an ice screw. I was not impressed but pressed on. Hacked a but more and placed another screw. Feeling better I pushed on and with each new ice screw the doubt grew. Finally after about 20m I found a tree belay and lassoed nyself to it and brought Dave up. The next pitch looked very relaxed so I headed off and the first half was very slack but it steepened up with some short steep steps and bulges. While Dave followed I looked at the next few pitches, they looked good, but I was concerned about continuing. The ice was good to climb but poor to protect, and I was getting tired with having to cut 5-10 cm of ice away to place every screw. I was also worried about my ability to get Dave up and down and 5-6 pitch climb as I was doing all the decision making and basically guiding. It was difficult to decide to abb off, the last two route I have abbed off due to conditions and I was wondering if I was getting soft. After abbing off and realized that I could easily get Dave off the route but I still think i made the right choice.

That sums up a problem I have when climbing with new people, doubt about my abilities, which in reality is unfounded and in reality I am a good safe climber. This may seem arrogant thing to say, but this year I have guided 2 people on 4 ice routes without any hitch. I like it and it makes me wonder if I should do more of it, but I also wonder if by becoming a qualified instructor I would become just a job and the fun would fad away... something to think about. Both Keith and Dave had a good time, I now this as they were vocal about it. I like taking people climbing, you see a different side to them, before and after the climb. Its like an exposure of the sole, something I really like, a window of honesty and I always respect it, as in reality I am as open if not more open then they are.