The Third Belay

The following three posts are associated with an article that was added to a web site called UKClimber.com, and was based on the following three articles I wrote. This is the full version, which I think is better but understand why UKC altered them to form a more internet friendly version.

Part 3 out of 3

Oops! there is something a little wrong with the HTML code for this I'll sort it out latter!

The Third Belay

The Third Belay of the
excellent and original Bergernsteiners was held on Jan 12^th 1941 Jet
Miners, Broughton.

Present :

Otto Von Hanson, The MacDon, Chas B
(RAF), Bros (H.Pybus), Hon Musician (G.Hall), Chief Guide (A.Barker), Skim
Barker (?),Jack Gash, The MacTav (Stainthorpe), Archy Buckley, Chas Saunders

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=112681Through
the eye of the compass. Time stands still

A damp dismal morning saw 5 of
the more active Bergers assemble at the appointed spot and off they went to Clay Bank where they found at the top mist and snow. This did not dampen the spirit and the chief guide
dispatched himself on the detached pinnacle however his marvelous powers seemed on the wane and success was not achieved. They all hoped
this was a temporary phase. After this
brief try on the rock, surrounded in mist and snow, they had an
illustration of how easy it was to lose oneself in mist. One of the clan Berger persuaded the others to go
south and then ended up going north east. The navigation was heightened by the
proposal of a wager on his direction being still south. This cost the member two packets of fags and his honor! For the first time since 1939 we
hear about [the] Pillar Fiasco, & we all got very wet in reference to the weather being very similar on
this day. One member had
brought along spare socks, trousers and slippers, however the minute takers
says modesty forbids me to mention his name. It would appear that he intended getting
so wet inside that what happened outside was a matter of no importance. They moved back to the Jet Miners for 2pm, and soon
the wetness and cold outside was forgotten as they found a huge fire
and empty bar. By about 3:30 dinner had
been eaten and washed down with beer. The usual toasts were made to The
King and absent friends. One Berger
recited a poem in Yorkshire dialect, which focused on the genius of
each of the Bergers. Otto Von (Army
Hanson) told the members he had been invited by Bob Holmes chief of
the Lakeland Club, to their annual Hon Pro Supper. He had also been invited to do an impossible new pitch on
Gimmer. It would seem he wriggled
out of this one! Although it was felt the
fame and honor of the Clan Bergers was in tacked, and clearly growing.

Then suddenly the mood changes and
the question of the club name, Bergensteigern is raised and the association with the country they were at war with.
Frank B hands over a letter from a Patriarch, which contained a 10
shillings note towards funds. The letter outlines reason why the club should
change its name. As the note contained money, however, it was seen as a bribe
and deemed unfortunate. But clearly with war at their door step, any association with Germanic
words was distasteful and so the club voted to change the name Der
Bergensteigern to another. Much
lamenting went on about the good old days and what the club would
be called and why should the name change! The diary records; the Germans
had waged this war, the bombing of accredited neutrals and rather hideous
association of any German hand above our association must be removed. Then
suddenly G.Hall (hon Musician and seconded by Hon Sec) hailed we be
known in future as The BERGERS, as this
word was considered Nordic in
origin. This is rather fanciful
and the word Bergers is not Nordic, however this did not matter to the new clan
and with unanimous support and call from member; Den Bergensteigern is dead, Long live the Bergers! Otto von gave a speech, which the
minute taker admits the main gist
escape[s] him but followed
the rough lines of praising the late chief, and hoping the ongoing clan feud
between rival members (McDon and McTav) would now be over. This feud was
clearly healing as the McDon graciously praised the work of the McTav
air raid shelter duties. Following this
the McDon asked in future could Otto Von (Army Hanson) the newly appointed
Chieftain to provide words placed in their proper order when giving speeches. (Inset in Diary – “Otto
Von” this name has a horrible German flavor, this must be attended
to). The meeting finished at 8.30. It is
noted Stan Pearson could not attended as he could not get leave from the RAF.
His son Herbert also did not attend. The diary is signed The
MacNab.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=79272MacTavish
(F.C. Stainthorpe) and James Hanson (Army’s brother) on Blavan

There are no more minutes in the diary
until a Tuesday in May. It was too wet,
and so a short walk was taken with minutes recording; seemingly these
short walks are becoming a feature of the Bergers nights. The minute taker tactfully forgot most of the
evening’s event but one. The changing of Otto Vons name as it
had a Germanic sound. They discussed a new name, and contemplated telling
Somerset House and the local newspapers – You know how it goes. A letter was received supporting the name change,
but this was imaginary along with a thousand others and postcards from all over the world some with lengthy epistles and other shorter with “my God why”. Only
one person wrote to challenge the
name change and that was Hitler.
It was decided Otto von would be called McNab, although he had been calling
himself this for some time. The minute taker writes; The McNab sits
in His chieftain’s chair slightly
corpulent me thinks, but nevertheless releasing in the arms of his ancestors,
Gentlemen, Long live the McNab. After this
McNab gave a new badge to the club and they fell into rebellious
talk, debauchery, claymores and so forth.

The following Sunday after the
Tuesday meet a run to the Wain Stones took place. Prompt start, was made, the usual men were in bed at the
usual time, the usual man being ready at the usual time, the chief guide
attempted, I say attempted, to belie his past errors on the Rocks by donning
rubbers, what in itself alone was an act of discretion to those rocks at least
in the eyes of his fellow Bergers.
Following the climbs; Purists in the gentle are of rock climbing
called at the Jet Miners and had beers and made a mess of the one o’clock news.

Meeting held at the Jet Miners
June 2^nd 1941. No activities this “do” was in honor of the visit of
our ambassador of Scotland, Doc Brown, looking as well as ever, with him a
gentlemen by the name Harry Farrow, now in the RAF, who according to the afore [Doc Brown] has worn boots on Squr n’an Gilean to
become an honored Berger. A story is noted
of a trip to the Lakes. The car broke down on the way, which resulted in
reaching Keswick at lunch, were they went looking for Mcnab who had been
holidaying in the Lakes. They went looking in Langstrath, but no McNab. The chief guide here attempted to condone his past
failures by a tricky ascent & descent of a protuberance in the valley. The minutes don’t record if he was success but
state; whether perhaps I am making too much of this effort remains
for the future to decide as his brother Chas elected to go to sleep, whether
through boredom or confidence I do not know as I forgot to ask Chas. This section of the minutes finishes with them flogged
the old iron (car) all the way
home; made it to Darlington by 8:55 and blow up again! This time the chief
guide showed interest holding the torch, or rather spent his time shaking it
about to get it to work. The minutes have been signed by The MacNab.

Meeting held June 28^th, previous
to the meal had the usual walk, which as now degenerated into a wild scramble
from the cars into the bar. The meeting
ensued, with interest but nothing written in the minutes.

The last meeting of 1941 was held
in jet Miners December 12^TH This was the reconnoitering party on
reconnaissance, who did their job with the usual Bergers dash into the bar. There is little of note, apart from the McNab (Army
Hanson) intends getting in touch with the Abraham of Keswick for a
picture for the menu card, his film and a quiz on the Lakes and other
mountains. My mother told me that Army had
once taken some pictures he took to the Abraham of Keswick for some advice and
came back right chuffed saying they had bought the rights for a few off him.

Fourth belay
was held Jan 11^th 1942 at the Jet Miners; the writing is difficult to follow. A preferred start at
10am saw us off punctually at 11pm. The
delights of the Jet Miners almost thwarted them, as the fire was lit and it was
cold outside; we sallied forth out into the unknown fastnesses of
Cleveland. The venture took them to the
Wain stones, where we spent an enjoyable hour scrambling among the
icy rocks. The Hon Sec found a rock on a craggy
perch and after climbing on to the ledge sent
the thing hurtling to its doom thousands of feet below. They returned to the warmth
of the Jet Miners at 4:30pm to eat. They toasted Mrs Bainbridge for her
fantastic food, even thought the meat was rabbit now. A letter was read
out by McNab from the Bob Holmes of Keswick, the leader of the Lakeland
mountain club, who was in the forces now and stationed in the south. Bob
Holmes letter was read out; though tampered with a very justifiable
grouse, to wit, lamentable occupation – tent – refraining… Well the Clan Bergers are displeased to see their
friend posted south, and think Whitehall have made a mistake of their Commando!
The minutes go on, it’s chaotic at best,
and they raise toasts to absent friends and the King and pay
great homage to Scotland with gusto. Games broke out, with two teams battling it out, songs were sung like “The
road to the Isle”. The minutes finish
with; thus, one of the happiest gatherings in the annuals of the
Clan. Signed The MacNab (Army Hanson).

And that was it;
there is a few more post, but just names, who attended meetings, nothing more.
Near the beginning of the diary in black elegant handwriting: Members Year ending Dec 31^st 1942, as page 1 and Stan Pearson, Archie
MacGregor, MacKay, Harry Farrow.

It is evident
the club existed, maybe more informally as early
as Feb 1936, when the clan was photographed on the ice of Stickle tarn in
Langdale, but after December 31^st 1942 there are no more entries.
War continued on, and I recall that my mother telling me that Doc Brown fell
ill in Glasgow, and needed penicillin, but all the stocks were needed for the
front line and so he died. She even told me that at one time the very stocks
of medicine he needed were stacked outside his hospital room.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=78991Men
on ice Feb 1936 – Stickle Tarn

So what
happened to Pillar Rock! And was the
honor of the Bergers upheld after so many
Pillar Fiascos? There is no
mention in the minutes of success, however there is one un-dated letter written
by Army Hanson (The McNab), some twelve pages long, called “The
challenge of Pillar Rock”.

Its starts: For
some time now it has been apparent among the more self-respecting section of
the Bergers Clan, that the gauntlet will have to be thrown down with regard to
this business of the ascent of “Pillar Rock” in Ennerdale . Members had tried! But had been thwarted on the Old
West Route due to not being able to find
the start of the route due to few coils of mountain mist! Granted the mist was of a particularly vicious
variety worming its way into every crack – chimney – crevice
– and turned what were once good strong hand & footholds into
veritable slippery death traps! It
would seem the Clan Berger had on several occasions been forced to retreat off
the Pillar due to gusty weather
for which Army writes, By this I do not mean an ordinary steady wind, but
one that playfully pulls you off your footholds – gives you cowardly push
from the side, a suddenly blow the rope round you neck so you appear to be
strangled. The letter continues but it is clear only retreat and
not success bound their adventures. Army finishes by lamenting of what
could have been; and when at last & with infinite joy the “Burgers”
heave the final brink & behold with proud & haughty stance – the
prospect undoubtingly form “Pillars” lofty summit – they can
say – We the Bergers who have had the tenacity to essay this mighty Rock
of Pillar – have this day reinstated the flagging footmen of our great
tradition.

It is signed - Long
live the Bergers