Part 2 out of 3
The Second Belay
The Second Belay of the worthy and Honorable (Née Honorary) order of BERGENSTEIGERN Jan 14th 1940. Held under the benign eye of Mrs. Bainbridge to say nothing of the Blue Pencil …… of her granddaughter (we think) the following Bergers were present:
Clan Bergers with Gimmer Crag in the back ground possible 1939. Army is on the centre of the picture with the spotted jumper, next his Brother Jim in the white shirt and dark jacket.
The Macdon, Chief Guide – A.C.Barker, Map Reader – C.Barker, Skiff – F.Barker, Bros - H.I.Pybus, Otto von – T.A.Hanson, Arch.Buckley, Chas Saunders, Halibut – S.Pearson, C.H.Allen – Grapefruit & Squiff – Hon Pooh bear. And the Chieftain in his rightful place….. The rear!
Club Anecdote: “We will just take a few sandwiches in case”
These old men would turn up at Army’s house from time to time, mother would get terrible excited and if Army hadn’t noticed, or was playing it cool, my mother would rush over and call him Daddy, and explain there was a guest. “Oh Hello” he would say and “who’s this then…” And Millie would quickly make tea, often in the garden. Army would always seem, to be playing it casual, but you could tell be the eyes, there was no secrets he was made up to see this person. My mother would walk back to our house, head down, slightly shy, and quickly explain, someone from the club is here, a friend of grandpa’s and I was left none the wiser!
Some minutes takers have greater flair for recording than others. During this, the second belay, and the several pitches that make it up, MacTav (F.C Stainthorpe) kept a neat and detailed recording of daily events, often with hard and direct humor, which verges at several times as downright rude or Yorkshire!
The Weather changes
A glorious morning saw a gathering of the Clan at the end of Fell Dowre at the disgustingly early hour of 10:30. Chas Barker drove Otto, Bros, The MacTav and the MacDon.
Stan Pearson drove Squiff, arch, Buck, Hon Fuas, Hon Secty, Hon Fin Secty and Hon auditor.
A full load this!
Arriving at Jet Miners, the Chief Guide had left word that he had already set off with Chas Saunders, the younger Allan, and Sunday length of age.
The extraordinary phenomenon of this early using of the part of the Chief Guide had to be seen to be believed. However leaving cars of the bottom of the fell, the Bergers found the Chief Guides limousine covered with HOAR! Frost. It was decided he had spent the night at Jet Miners,
Chas B had brought along a sledge but the sloped were free of snow, so sledging was out of the question.
The assemble moved off to the tops in single file the chieftain in his rightful position.
Lunch was taken at the top and the MacDon was delighted to find how unselfish and comradely the feeling was. Chas Saunders passed the flask containing washed dish water round. SKIM BARKER shared his soup, Chas B shared his tea, and sandwiches and cakes were offered by all to all. (N.B. The MacDon noticed that although the MacTavish partook literally of all the good things offered refrained from handing any of his own stuff around.)
Photographs and film was taken, and whist the Hon Scavenger the MacTav burnt the paper and in the only place from which the wind would blow the flames over our resting place, silly blighter, the others smoked cigarettes and pipes until this food had digested. It was remarked that the Chieftain took all the cigarettes which were offered. It is thought he is saving up to buy a new suit!
Club Anecdote: “Am I cheating? Pardon fellers”
Suddenly an about was heard and behold that Berger Pearson was seen clinging half way up a rock face. If the Prospectus of Halibut Gil could have seen the performance of stow this day, the new was he negotiated, balanced and generally overcame all difficulties, in ordinary shoes and AUSTIN REED NATTY SUITINGS, they would preserve him for life as their finest achievement . Sunday climbs were made of the very interesting thing. Chas B did a neat solo on the needle. The Hon Treasure and other members of the party! Scrambled all over the place, always working together in unison. He was in good flow. Even the MacTav excelled himself been dragged up one steep pitch of about 12 feet. And Buckley a Charitable soul swore the MacTav did touch one of the holds, - but it was with his backside. Otto generally comforted himself with the usual cheerful through slightly overwhelming style. Old Otto does love the mountains, he embraces them lovingly, enveloping them in his eager arms; he is the stuff which makes heroes.
All the Bergers. Present, with glorious sun shining, appeared to be trying to work up as big an appetite as possible. The MacDon was impressed with the unselfish way in which the Chief Guide set himself out to help all the other Bergers. When he could have been ‘Showing off’ and ‘doing his stuff’ he was belaying, hoisting and advising the less capable Bergers. Knowing his prowess as a rock-gymnast - I wish to place on record his unselfish and kindly actions of this perfect day.
Half way through the afternoon the rocks sang with welcome to the oldest Berger A.C.A who was seen climbing the fell accompanied by his do. At this point last year’s skipper disappeared. It was thought that his exactions on the rock had given his bile bogus the necessary sludge. Skim showed himself a useful climber, but not as confident in his ability as he should. If only had had the concert of the MacDon he would be good. At this point our oldest member put his younger completely in the shade. With very slight, if any assistance from the rope he overcame a rather stiff and exposed pitch of about 40ft! His arrival at the summit was greeted with cheers from his adoring fellow Bergers. A Hawked bomber flying in the vicinity, hearing the acclamation, turned tail and fled.
After a short stroll over the fells the Bergers returned to their cars, the only fly in the ointment being the loss of C.Barker’s axe some damned Sassenach had wolfed it.
The only incident of note on the return journey was the indiscretion of that Berger of Barker, who was determined to gladder the heart! Of a female member of a cycling club. The women of uneasy virtue loitered around parking ground casting feverish eyes on the massive limbs of the former Skipper. It was noticed that he lingered unduly over his disrobing. Happily the old blast (N.E. wind) was sufficient to discourage the naughty passions engendered by the loitering female.
On returning to the Jet Miners for supper, beer and presentation by members, the diary records in great details discussions and anecdotes, and as the beer flowed, it becomes increasingly difficult to tell fact from fiction.
It was during this evening’s entertainment, that Bros (H.Pybus) presented a story, which the MacNav recorded: "Bros told us of the 'supposed' overcoming of the N.face of the Eiger by a party of Germans. This party used special pitons -"
Over the page it continues...
"The local guide who did not agree the climbers had reached top called the climbers - 'Plumbers not Mountaineers' after hearing Bros eye witness accounts of the climb, and his assurances that on his own ascent of this face, by the same route the following morning - before breakfast, NO MARKS of any kind showed on the last 1000 ft, the Bergers agreed to support the local guides" But they would, wouldn’t they, after all the first ascent was German and Clan Bergers were at war with very same people.
Meeting held at Hutton Gate March 28th at 8:30 am. “After a short delay owing to an aberration by the Chief Guide (he was always late!) the party made for Hutton Gate” They walked over the moor to Lunedale where an old feud became temporarily silent: “MacTav and MacDon, Claymore, buried, disported themselves with toy boats in the ‘Silent Pool’. Amazingly neither fell into the water”
Roping for a climb on Great Gable.
After this meet, the entries into the diary are often short, to the point, and mention no climbing. The most significant entry comes from the minutes of the Clan Bergers April 16th, at the Jet Miners: “The scenery observed from the moor top was peaceful and exquisite. The clouds taking on the contour and configuration of part of the Norwegian coast known to several “Bergers”. It was resolved that the strongest support that we could offer should be given to Norway as Norway was a mountainous country and Hitler was now trespassing on our preserved, a hate of affair which could not be right tolerated. The outride world has read in the press of the fact that Frank Smythe our spiritual leader was the right hand man of the Ministry of Supplies when equipping troops for Norway “. Again we see the tremendous value of the Bergers to our war effort”. The meeting is finished with the chief Guide offering to bring a report on his recent trip to the Lake District and Otto Von shall bring his book “Norwegian” holiday.
The year draws on, but war is ever present in the minutes of the Clan Bergers. May 7th at the Jet Miners “Discussed the Dutch Bulge situation and came to the conclusion that the ‘direct finish’ should always be in the forefront of our minds”. Another annual general meeting took place in June with no date given, only names are recorded with no minutes taken, and then another meeting August 25th, with Chas Barker turning up “resplendent in Air Force Blues” and “It should be notes here that the previous evening had been spent in the shelters, consequently we were a trifle late in starting” One member turned up, but left shortly as he needed to “comfort the maid” a reference to having to comfort his wife after the air raids. Two members of the Clan Bergers, Chas Barker and Stan Pearson, were leaving to join the RAF: “here recorded in the minutes our good wishes and fond hopes for a speedy and safe return”
9 Army Hanson in Kern Knott’s Chimney
There are no more entries into the diary for 1940, just a open letter, possibly a presented speech, written by the Hon Sec MacTav, called “Digression, The” it’s sad, almost apologetic in part, fanciful as a young man chaotically tries to make sense of a world that is rapidly changing. “Tears now blot the ink as we write, the hands trembles, the hearts falter, can this great body of manhood vanish. How well we remember the old days when we went to the Lakes”. He continues with fanciful recollection of the Clan Bergers walking over the Lakeland Mountains with locals locking up wives and daughters from the eyes of the passing Clan Bergers. This rambling letter makes several references to the climbing indiscretion of club members “Doc Brown even then slightly corpulent fastened in the Needles Crack dangling in his opinion thousands of feet above terra firma” and “[the] Chief Guides awkward moment on the slab above Kern Knotts Crack when collective climbing was adopted at the expense of safety” followed by Chas Barkers whose moment between life and death on High cliff “was made much happier by the advice of all and sundry twenty feet of rock with handholds, none existent”. The letter is, often chaotic, what started with a sorrowful embrace of what they were losing now turns to a history of certain Clan members indiscretion on the rock. MacTav turns his attention to: “Otto’s most embarrassing moments occurred in Kern Knott’s chimney, for months old Otto had prepared for this ‘do’, boots nailed, each with nine pronged tricunies come Everest special clinkers” , he then goes on to describe in great detail, how Otto had prepared provisions not only for himself but for his trusted Sherpa: “6 lbs of Kendal Mint cake” when the day comes for “his attack from the south west” Otto and his faithful Sherpa (Artey Barker), find themselves at the bottom of the chimney: “Otto’s eagle eyes surveyed that way worked out so assiduously, when behold arrived two damsels and one man who entered and skipped up the chimney with a nonchalance since adopted by the Bergers“. This was too much for Otto, and he turned his back on the chimney and said to his faithful Sherpa: “Passang you go tell them the monsoon has broken”. This entry is just signed: “The future of the Bergensteigerns is in your hands. Gentlemen I thank you”. This letter that starts so sad becomes witty and sharp and makes one wonder if with each passing phase he becomes whipped up into frenzy of memories that have been clouded of lately and with every brush of the written stroke, those distant memories come flooding back with rejoice. There is no signature on the letter, but we can assume it is the MacTav. This was MacTav’s last chair and by the Third Belay it would seem Otto von is there new leader.
Throughout the whole minutes of the meeting in 1940, the humor remains, but it is drier, less jovial, and more serious than before. The trips and meets are more often local, less frequent, nobody wants to be far from home, and due to rationing they have neither food nor fuel.
There are very few entries for the rest of the year, and by the time the third belay comes in January of 1941, many things will change.
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