Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Fossen Failure!

Today Keith and Jamie the intrepid adventures of Bergen tried an epic ascent of Starefossen this slightly less than gigantian frozen waterfall that almost dominates Bergen, leaving a few in its shadow, especially the people that live very close to it, but not many more. The epic ascent started with a very late alpine start at 4pm, after we faffed with Keith´s crampons, as I did not want to repeat the lending fiasco that had previously occurred. We elected to drive from Keith house a few hundred meters from this fall to limit the walk in, and to stop people asking why were we carry axes and other sharp things. The walk in, over slightly angled snow and occasional slippy tree roots brought us to this mighty fall, in approximately 30 seconds, I was scared. Keith pointed at the proximity of the hospital, which was of little comfort. We talked in short burst, giggling nervously as I fumbled with the rope and tried to ignore the amount of water running behind the majestic frozen(ish) fall. I started up the fall, axes blazing, and decided very quickly due to the ice quality the best technique was a light jog. Occasionally I placed an ice screw, but this was just for fun, as they were completely useless. At the first belay I contemplated the next pitch, a slight sweat soaked my body. Keith joined me on the ledge, and we had a con-flab. I gingerly attacked the second pitch, easy angled snow, grass and trees brought me to the first ramp, which shuddered to my axe and accepted a ice screw which would be as useful as a chocolate fire-guard. I relished in the moment, before moving up to find the next section of ice was suspended above a 10cm void. Gingerly I traversed to the left and peered into an increasing hole to find the ice was suspended above the howl rock face. I contemplated my next move, the ego is strong in this one, and drive to throw all caution to the wind was great. The ice was good, but I would get no meaningful gear, and if the the howl thing collapsed nothing but the ground would catch me. I agonised over the decisioned, and then thought fuck it the ice above the ramp looked as sun bleach as sun bleached babe on bondi beach. There was no choice but to retreat, tail between my legs, and with each axe blow the ice sounded hollower and hollower. We rappelled, and ran back to the car and made for the comfortable bivi of keith´s house for tea and pancakes!

We left it to late... May be if there is another freeze which is foretasted we might have another chance but...may be not....

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