Climbing again

Recently after a run of sport climbing, even up to the dizzy heights of -7!! wow big for me, I had this increasing urge to get back out and trad climb again. Finding the way up some stone, following just features, placing your own gear and then removing it is actually what I like most about climbing. sport climbing for me is just training and a bit of social. I am no sport climbing snob, its just trad route I remember and sports routes I forget very quickly.

Few days ago Jess and Karin joined me at short notice and we headed up to Liafjell on Sotra. This is home to traditional climbing in bergen and is a beautiful place. The weather was great, not to hot, not to cold, dry with a light wind. Thankfully the wind dropped when we got to the chosen route as it was a little sharp at times. I never really understand Norwegian grades, just this number which means very little so when i headed up Sydflakken the easiest route on this face at a grade 3+/4 I was a little nervous to say the least. From past experiences this route could turn out to be anything. Jess and Karin had not trad climbed before so I ran throw a few does and don't, the gear, what to do if this happens etc. and set off up the first pitch. It was awkward as granite can be but I told myself it was only 3+. Before the belay ledge was a smooth corner. One wall was smooth and vertical the other less vertical but still smooth. The crack at the back of the corner was positive, but this is supposed to be 3+ a 3 m layback for this level of route, hmm... I climbed up placed some gear, and expanding camming devise. It fitted well, but then i looked down and thought I hadn't talked about this stuff to the girls so took it back out and placed a wire. I tried to stand up again, and climbed back down, to a breath and headed up again, smearing on both walls looking for any foot holds. Some appeared but they were quite small for the grade. I sunk in a large bit of gear, and felt much better, and proceeded with very little grace to do a mantle-shelf move onto the ledge. That was a bit stiff I thought! I brought them both up, both found the corner tricky but I thought they just breezed it! The next pitch was delightful, the first moves involved a rockover move onto the slab, and again I thought well protected but awkward. I belayed about 20m up and brought them up and then we headed up the last pitch, which was just delightful slabs. Really great route, really enjoyable evening spent with friends. Just wonderful. There is so much climbing to be done on Sotra.